For centuries, the city's hulking official buildings served as
reminders of the awesome power of the imperial state. That didn't change
much when the Communist government took over in 1949. Then, with the
reform and opening of China, which began some three decades ago, the new
elite — corporate chieftains and their bureaucratic allies — began
erecting capitalist monoliths to showcase their newfound wealth and
influence. There's a lot of architectural swagger in Beijing, but
between and behind it there's also a lot for the tourist to enjoy.
At the physical and metaphorical center of Beijing is the Forbidden
City, the vast palace complex of former emperors that is now one of the
greatest museums in the world. From here, most of the city's other major
sites — except, of course, the Great Wall — are within a radius of a
mile or two.
1. Emperor Hotel Bar
The boutique Emperor Hotel is perched just opposite the east gate of the massive Forbidden City palace complex. Trendy and airy, the 55-room hotel has many charms. But best of all for the weary traveler is its rooftop bar, Yin.
Built on an ascending series of platforms, the bar has the best view in
town hands-down. Having a drink here at dusk as you gaze over the
swooping tiled roofs of the vast former residence of the Emperor is
magical. A word of warning, though: Presumably in the spirit of adding
Chinese authenticity, many of the house cocktails are made with the
notoriously potent Chinese rice liquor
baijiu. Avoid those.
- 1. Emperor Hotel
33 Qihelou Street, Beijing, China 100006; 86-(0)10-6526-5566
- 2. Yin, Emperor Hotel Rooftop
33 Qihelou Street, Dongcheng, Beijing, China 100006; 86-(0)10-6526-5566
2. Shichahai Lakes
Everybody visits the Forbidden City,
of course, but a stroll around the adjoining lakes, which used to be
part of the emperors' vast pleasure gardens is a wonderful complement.
Don't pass up renting a rowboat and taking a float around Beihai (or North Lake) Park,
while contemplating the huge white Buddhist stupa built in 1271 by
Kublai Khan. The three lakes — Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Rear Lake)
and Xihai (West Lake) — north of Beihai and about a mile north of the
Forbidden City are known collectively as Shichahai
and are ringed by restaurants and bars. Try the wildly popular cuisine
of the Hakka minority group at Han Cang on the Shichahai East Bank.
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1. Forbidden City
Palace Museum, Beijing
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2. Beihai (North Lake) Park
Beijing, China; 86-(0)10-6407-1415
- 3. Han Cang
Shichahai East Bank, Opposite north gate of Beihai Park, Beijing, China; 86-(0)10-6404-2259
3. Hutongs
After a stop for refreshment in Shichahai, head east on Guloudajie Road into one of Beijing's few remaining
hutong neighborhoods, with narrow alleys and single story traditional courtyard houses.
Hutongs
once dominated the city, but in recent years many have been leveled in
the name of modernization. Trishaw drivers hang around offering tours,
but a better and cheaper (not to mention healthier) bet is to rent your
own bike and get pleasantly lost in the back lanes around the Drum and Bell towers.
It's not hard to find one of numerous small bicycle shops nearby.
Alternatively, look for one of 20 stands dotted around the city, run by
the Beijing Bike Rental Company, which rents bikes by the hour, the day
or longer.
1. Drum Tower and Bell Tower
Gulou Xidajie, Dongcheng, Beijing, China
4. Nanluoguxiang
If you're keen on retail therapy, one must-see
hutong is
Nanluoguxiang in the Gulou, or Drum and Bell Tower, district, which has
several kilometers of shops, galleries and cafés that range from the
chic to the kitschy. You'll find lots of cool T-shirts here (Plastered has a good line) featuring tricked-out images of everything from Mao Zedong to garden gnomes. Fun.
- 1. Plastered T-Shirts
61 Nanluoguxiang, Beijing, China 100009; 86-(0)134-8884-8855
5. Dali Courtyard Restaurant
Recharge from shopping in Nanluoguxiang at nearby Dali Courtyard
Restaurant, a beautifully restored, laid-back place — it's not gussied
up to a fake plastic sheen — that specializes in the food of the
southern province of Yunnan. Influenced by the dishes of its Southeast
Asian neighbors, Burma and Vietnam, Yunnan cuisine is light and
sophisticated, and makes good use of the region's abundant mushrooms and
unusual herbs. There is no menu at Dali. Diners enjoy price-fixed
courses between US $15 and $40, made from whatever the chef found
freshest in the market that day. The place is a little tricky to find.
Your taxi will drop you at the mouth of the alley; walk straight down
about 150 yards and look to your left for a red lantern down an even
smaller alley.
- 1. Dali Courtyard Restaurant
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Beijing, China; 86-(0)10-8404-2030
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